Photo credit: Symrise
Emilie Coppermann is a renowned perfumer with over 20 years of experience with the most prestigious fashion and designers brands. One of her latest creation is Mon Instant, the first perfume launched by Chinese leading beauty brand Herborist. She shares with us her inspirations and the key success factors to achieve such an inspiring creation.
As a perfumer, could you describe your creation style ?
I would define my style as unconventional and playful. I like to get off the beaten track to create surprising concepts and unexpected associations. For example, creating a male perfume with a floral bouquet, or a feminine perfume with a wooden and spicy bouquet. I like how the contrast and duality create a unique story and give to the perfume another dimension, a deeper identity.
Where did you get inspiration to create this perfume ?
Every day, everything is a source of inspiration for me: music, people, new encounters, business and personal trips abroad, materials… Travelling abroad especially is a rich and incredibly inspiring experience for all the senses.
For Mon Instant, I had the chance to travel to China and visit Herborist spas to better grasp the brand’s DNA. I was moved by its minimalist, natural, feminine and sophisticated identity. As the main ingredient of the perfume, I wanted to choose a flower that could both express those values and be found in China. So I selected the magnolia and used both the flower and the leaves.
What makes this perfume so unique ?
This perfume embodies the balance between opposites, both sophistication and minimalism, caring and luxurious, contemporary and classic. It was important that this balance was also found in the fragrance accords. So, to the magnolia, I subtly added camellia accords to make the scent softer and musk for the caring dimension.
During the creation process, I had the opportunity to share with Elie Papiernik, who imagined the hourglass-shape bottle and the perfume concept. To me, this collective work led to a really consistent and unique product.
How would you define the Chinese female consumer and how did you cater to their needs?
Curious and hyper connected, the Chinese female consumer is increasingly educated and value the quality of raw materials. Open to Western olfactory culture, she stays in favor of natural and soft scents, which is the prevailing trend in Asia.
That is why I created a floral bouquet, very feminine and natural. To cater to the Chinese demand, I also selected the iris, which in one of the most expensive fragrance ingredient, and the osmanthus which is a flower that can only be found in China.
Finally, what are the next trends to watch in 2019 on the Chinese fragrance market ?
The Chinese consumers have been increasingly supportive towards creations launched by local brands. In this context, Mon Instant by Herborist was created to be a truly Chinese fragrance, from its concept to its ingredients.
As for olfactory trends, I think that natural scents will continue to prevail. Moreover, the current interest of Chinese consumers in their own traditional heritage might pave the way for a future trend of fragrances based on Chinese traditional ingredients.
About Emilie: If you were…
A color: White! because it mixes of all the colors in one
A perfume: Jicky from Guerlain, a resolutely modern and iconic creation. But there are so many perfumes that moved me and that I love!
A piece of art: the Art museum of Teshima (Japan) jointly designed by artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa. A collective work that I love, and a true experience.
A city: Paris, I am a true Parisian and love its beauty, vibe and history.
A time: mine!
A movie: The Ghost and Mrs. Muir